Routes change over time: the goats erode a new path, or a landslide covers up the old. This page will give any known changes.
Torrential rain led to spectacular floods and massive stream bed erosion in early autumn 2013. This will have affected routes.
Walk 1: Mikro to Megalo Papingo the Scenic Route.
Page 25 of 1st edition. The text reads 'Ignore this, keep left and go steeply downwards on 'giant steps'. A clearer description [as another path has emerged here!] would read 'Ignore this, go straight on, steeply downwards on 'giant steps'. This follows the 03 route.
Once again the weather affects routes! Torrential rain recently washed away the bridge over the Rema Rogovo between the two villages. There are now some stepping stones across, and also a fordable route maked in red on stones. In addition the path just after the bridge to the right [if coming from Mikro] was blocked by a huge tree. The path has been diverted steeply up from the ford [there is even a hand line in place.] It soon joins the old 03 route. If coming from Megalo Papingo the path is clearly diverted by a line of stones across it with a red arrow.
Although these changes are fine for summer walkers the river would be a real barrier if the water was high. This affects walkers coming up from the Vikos too if they are heading for Megalo Papingo.
Walk 3 Monopati. This walk is now clearly marked at both ends as it dives off down from the tarmac road to the pretty bridge below. The signs give the name of the village you are heading towards, rather than the old, hand-made sign of 'MONOPATI', which just means footpath!
Walk 5. Avragonia, Nafsiika's Bear Garden and the Butterfly Valley. If you are going on from Avragonia to the Butterfly valley you need to know that there are now TWO signs giving the time of 2.50 minutes to the Katafygio. The first one you reach is new; go on a little further and you will find the old painted sign by the turn off to the left which takes you to Nafsika's Bear Garden and the Butterfly Valley.
If you decide to try to find Aristarkis' Feta Factory No. 2 - then a little more detail may help: when you have crossed the second stream keep more towards the woods on your left than the stream on your right. Also - the path off to the left after the section of wall is very close - about 50 metres.
When you have found the pretty plateau with the Feta Factory on it you will have reached one of Papingo's Sacred Groves: an area special since ancient times - with mighty oak trees. It is called Kalogheriko.
Walk 6. Kokkino Lithari and the Corner
In particular page 44 [of first edition] first paragraph - the dried-up river bed - it should be dry again; however the path has been obliterated here and you will need to find a way across and up to the old path - which can still be seen perched three metres above the stream bed. Also - page 44 - the distinctive scree cone - had a dry-stone wall built beside the path in 2013. This has subsequently been partially covered by storm material. In 2013 useful metal marker posts were set up along this route. Let's see how long they last... Generally the poles are on the right, with arrows pointing in the direction of travel. I'm not sure if all of them point in the right direction though!
Walks 7,8,9 and 10. There are now covered seating areas at the refuge and the wells leading up to it. Luxury!
Walk 11. I am MORTIFIED to find that I have put the wrong date for the celebrations at Agia Kiriaki. It is July 7th, not the 8th. I hope no-one has gone up hopefully on the 8th...
If you want to strike off to hit the Koula-Lapatos ridge, and return via Koula - the book says that it takes a quarter of an hour to reach the maintrack. This is quite an understatement - particularly if you are looking for mountain tea en route! The main point is to keep high enough to pass above the deeply cut valley that lies between Kiriaki and the track.
The turning off the track to Koula is marked only with a pile of brown stones now. However, the path soon becomes very clear.
The short-cut through the trees to Kiriaki from the 4 x 4 track is very indistinct. However if you simply go uphill you soon emerge onto the track – now dwindled to a quad bike, mule or foot path.
Kiriaki has gained a shelter in amongst the pine trees. Useful, but not a thing of beauty!
The 1:50 000 map recommended in the book is now available from:
ΑΝΑΒΑΣΗ Βουλής 32, 10557 Αθήνα firstname.lastname@example.org
It can also be bought in shops in Papingo
We've just walked the Vikos Gorge [haven't done it for over twenty years!] - covered in many guide books and now in the third edition of Exploring Papingo! If you have an earlier edition editin I would be happy to send you this extra walk, and also Profitis Ilias.
Here are some photos to whet your appetite for the Vikos: